When in Rome?
...eat.
Reasons to dine at Ketumbar include loads of insanely attractive Romans, food that combines Japanese and Italian influences (noodles with duck and fried parsnip, meat-and-vegetable ravioli in soy sauce) and the fact that it is located in Testaccio, the in neighbourhood right now. Sushi meets Rome in low-lit bars and exotic dining rooms. Dinner for two with wine runs to 100 euros. Via Galvani, 24, phone (0039) 06 573 05338.
Il Desiderio Preso per la Coda is a little-known jewel near the Piazza Navona. Serious Italian food this: rigatoni with porcini, risotto with fresh figs, carpaccio of sea bass, all with incredibly reasonably priced wine. The crockery is colourful and mismatched, and the restaurant's card advertises locations in New York, Paris, Mombasa and Hanoi ? none of which exist. Dinner for two with drinks: 70 euros. Vicolo della Palomba 23, phone (0039) 06 683 07522.
Doc offers such treats as petto di galletto alla finocchiella (breast of chicken with wild fennel), tonnarelli pesce spada e capperi (fresh pasta with swordfish and capers). Originally a wine bar (the cellar is impressive), Doc has done what an awful lot of bars and restaurants have failed to do this year in Testaccio — survive and make an impression. Dinner for two with wine is about 70 euros. Via Beniamino Franklin 9, phone (0039) 06 574 4236.
Hot and hip right now is F.I.S.H. (Fine International Seafood House). Small and sleek, it offers exceptional sushi and sashimi, plus specialities such as swordfish tandoori and calamari stuffed with curried couscous. Dinner for two with wine is about 90 euros. Via dei Serpenti 16, phone (0039) 06 4782 4962.
Prefer something simpler, quicker and less expensive? L'Insalata Ricca has dozens of creative salads, with ingredients like spinach, salmon, hearts of palm, lobster and bufala mozzarella. Lunch or dinner for two with wine and great bread, costs no more than 30 euros. There are locations throughout Rome, with the biggest and best one located near Campo dei Fiori at Largo dei Chiavari, 85/86, phone (0039) 06 688 03656.
